Hung Ry 09-17-2011

Location: 55 Bond St.

Time: 12:30pm

People: RB, CK and myself

Feelings: We have wanted to go to Hung Ry, an upscale hand pulled noodle joint, for quite some time but never got a chance until now. You know how New York food trends work: foodies find authentic, hall-in-the wall spots usually in Queens. Then similar authentic spots open in Manhattan. By the time some famous chefs start a modern take of the food downtown, the trend is near over. Hand pulled noodles have been on the same path since Xi'an made it on Anthony Bourdain's show. I usually prefer more authentic flavor to the modern take, but Hung Ry certainly did not disappoint. In fact, they may serve far better noodles than many places in Chinatown.

Do not go to Hung Ry expecting $5 hearty noodle soup you may find on Doyers street. The food portion is equally large, but Hung Ry is located across from Billy Reid and down the street from Daryl K and my most favorite shoe store, United Nude, so expect to pay at least $15-$20 for a bowl. The selling point of Hung Ry is that they use organic flour, and the ambiance is more upscale and chic while maintaining the low key vibe. The service was warm and friendly, and they even served us a complimentary amuse bouche. The linen hand towels in the bathroom also provided a pleasant and environmentally friendly experience.

My thick noodles with corn-ginger broth and seasonable vegetables ($14) had an utterly imaginative combination of flavors. The rich broth carried the mild sweetness of the corn with a hint of spiciness of the ginger. The vegetables were char grilled before placed in the soup, and they were smokey yet fresh, and the crispiness of the vegetables shined through. This was perhaps the first time I almost forgot about the noodles since the rest of the elements was so interesting and artfully created.

RB's was also pleasantly surprised by his thick noodles with duck breast, leg, long beans, Chinese broccoli and goji berry ($19). The duck was expertly cooked and deliciously tender, and the long beans and broccoli were pleasantly crispy and fresh. It is rare to find a bowl of soup where all the ingredients maintain their freshness yet blend so well together.

In the end, it does not matter if the food is authentic or modernized. In the end, it all comes down to flavor. I certainly saw the noodle magic happening before my eyes, and at the same time, it was nice to see them staying true to the authenticity of hand pulled noodles.